by Ryan Markiewicz | Dec 27, 2024 | Berlin's Wall
Yesterday we were supposed to visit the Ukrainian Research Station here in Antarctica, but as always, the weather rules the roost here. 15-20′ waves and very low visibility forced the captain to take shelter for the day instead.
Though disappointed (but nothing you can do), we watched the film “20 Days in Mariupol” about the Russian invasion in 2022. We also got to hear Jose Hernandez speak about his incredible journey as a migrant US farm laborer from Mexico to a NASA astronaut (check out the movie about his life story–truly awe-inspiring–“A Million Miles Away.” Unbelievable!)
Today we begin our journey back north through the Drake Passage to Ushuaia. Hopefully we will encounter “Drake’s Lake” and not “Drake’s Shake”. This video is not from our ship, but just like the waves we experienced yesterday before we took shelter. You really cannot even walk, and things fly off the shelves. Pretty wild.
https://www.google.com/gasearch?q=drake%20passage%20waves&source=sh/x/gs/m2/5#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:523284c2,vid:fDSy3sddQNA,st:0
The captain announced yesterday that there is a medical emergency aboard one of the other ships heading south to Antarctica, so we are going to make a detour back to Elephant Island (our first stop) to pick up a passenger off the other ship there to bring him back to Ushuaia. One of the “rules of the sea” and the right thing to do.
Onward! -JB
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A typical research station in Antarctica. Life is VERY tough here (and this is summer – 24 hours a day of sunlight. Winter is dark almost all the time)
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We hiked this mountain with NASA astronaut Jose Hernandez (2nd from left) and one of his sons. His incredible life story was made into a movie. An AMAZING guy with an amazing life story. Check it out!
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This is the peak we climbed with him.
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The blue in some of these icebergs is incredible. The camera does not really do it justice.
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Glaciers are everywhere.
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Glaciers are just rivers of ice, Slowly flowing down the mountains to the sea. They break off and become icebergs.
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With Mariia (yes 2 i’s in her name) and Nava. They were both Ukrainian soldiers captured by the Russians and held prisoners after the fall of Mariupol in 2022.
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Neil deGrasse Tyson and Charles Duke
by Ryan Markiewicz | Dec 26, 2024 | Berlin's Wall
Christmas Day, we took a Zodiac ride around a natural harbor where we saw thousands of penguins and a few Antarctic Cormorants (black and white birds that look very much like penguins, only they CAN fly) and an elephant seal (big and scary, though on land they look so slow and sluggish).
But the highlight of the day was the Polar Plunge.
Now, if you have been following my blog at all, you know I did some prep for this (my good friend and prior Polar Plunger, Gordie Naughton, laughed, “Don’t waste your time”. He was right). All the practice that I did, getting into freezing tubs of water (thanks Brian, Craig, and Aaron), how to slow your breathing and “get your mind right” for the jump (thanks, Brent) all went out the window for me. I forgot everything I learned and did everything wrong. I swallowed some water, and instead of enjoying the experience, I wanted to get out as soon as possible.
Hallie jumped too. She was not sure she was going to jump (I knew she would–can’t refuse a challenge). And 148 of the 250 or so passengers jumped, setting a new record for this company’s cruises.
It definitely takes your breath away (if you let it–I did–even though I was told not to by all those guys who “prepped” me 🤪), but it is truly an “Exhilarating” experience. It’s one of those things it’s best not to think about/just do. It’s over in less than 30 seconds, and even though your body thinks it will not survive, it will (it is very safe–they have a crew ready to pull you out if you can’t get out yourself), and you feel good, even somewhat euphoric once it’s over. Most everyone who jumped felt that way. And it became a cool shared experience with your fellow travelers. Fistbumps (and shots of vodka) all around afterward. Worth doing.
And the good news is you don’t have to go all the way to Antarctica to do it. You can do it right in LP’s backyard in Lake Erie anytime in winter. Maybe during the holiday party the weekend of Jan 17th? 😉
Onward!
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Getting in line. I was way more excited for this than Hallie was, I guess.
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Stepping out onto the Zodiac
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Ready
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Aim
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Launch!
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Keep Mouth Closed!
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Wow, this is cold. Get me out of here!
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Success! Not as bad as we thought.
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And some vodka to celebrate.
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The incredible raw beauty of Antarctica
by Ryan Markiewicz | Dec 23, 2024 | Berlin's Wall
Deception Island is an active volcano and one of the only places in the world where ships can sail directly into the flooded caldera through a narrow entrance called Neptune’s Bellows.
The island’s caldera was formed by a massive volcanic eruption thousands of years ago and is partially flooded by the sea, creating a natural harbor.
We landed by Whaler’s Bay, a significant hub for whaling operations in the early 20th century. Later, it became an essential site for scientific research stations. However, volcanic eruptions in 1967 and 1969 forever caused the evacuation of the stations and damaged the facilities. The pictures are the remnants of those.
The name Deception Island comes from its outward appearance. It looked like a normal island to the early sailors, but discovering this concealed inner harbor gave it its “deceptive” nature.
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Finally, our boots on the ground in Antarctica
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Some “chase boats” from the old whaling days
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Some whale bones on the beach
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3 amigos
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No caption needed here
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The airplane hangar used by the old science research center
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Rocking the Bills in Antarctica
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Houses from the old research center
Looking forward to more exploring!
Onward! -JB
by Ryan Markiewicz | Dec 23, 2024 | Berlin's Wall
All, we made it to Antarctica! Tons of pics to share, so here they are.
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Our ship breaking through the ice
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Here we are actually on the ice
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Tens of thousands of these guys around
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One surprise is that most of the icebergs look like this one rather than the ones you normally think of. They are VERY flat. I guess it’s because they just break off of the Antarctic Ice Shelf which extends out to sea. But these things are HUGE.
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This is a caldera (the crater a volcano leaves after it blows) on Deception Island. It last exploded in 1969 and wiped out the Chilean and British research centers. We will take a hike around it.
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Research Station. Even though Antarctica is bigger than North America, fewer people live here year-round than can fit into your typical movie theater.
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This was a cool message we got from William Shatner before we set sail
Although the ship arrived, we haven’t actually set foot on Antarctica itself, but will be doing that later today. More to come…
Onward! -JB
by Ryan Markiewicz | Dec 22, 2024 | Berlin's Wall
Getting to Antarctica today. Yesterday we took a Zodiac ride around Elephant Island, the place where Ernest Shackleton’s crew took refuge for the 4 months or so it took for Shackleton and Worsley to navigate a lifeboat 800 miles in some of the roughest seas on earth to get help (If you have not read the book, Endurance” or seen the Shackleton movie, it’s an amazing true story of grit and cohesion and survival.
In fact, both William Shatner and the astronaut Scott Kelly said that it felt like a religious experience being there, seeing the exact spot from which these guys endured. And, in their talk, they each made the point that even though Shackleton’s mission was a failure, his ability to adapt to reality (their ship first got stuck in the ice/then crushed) and change “the plan”, from “being the first to traverse the entire Antarctic continent”, to now, finding a way of getting all 28 men back to England alive. Incredible story of heroism and leadership.
We have already seen penguins (we’ll see LOTS of penguins), seals, and a few whales, and we’re just getting to Antarctica. And we saw (and heard—like thunder) a glacier “calving” yesterday, where the ice breaks off and falls into the ocean, loudly, and creates what we are seeing hundreds of already, icebergs. Took some pics of them this am from our ship. And you’ll notice that even though it is only 5 am, it is light. No darkness in Antarctica at this time of year, their summer.
And, it struck me as funny, that down here, in the God-forsaken place at the bottom of the world, the temperature was 29 degrees Fahrenheit while back home in Erie, it was 24 hahahahaha.
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Monument to Chilean officer Luis Pardo on Elephant Island where the men sheltered for 4 months until Pardo steered his ship to rescue them
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Penguins are everywhere down here.
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Our ship, from the Zodiac
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Lots of albatross’ following the ship. They hardly ever land. Always on the wing.
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We’re seeing icebergs everywhere
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Lots of penguins
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Hallie & I 🙂
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Piece of 10,000 year old glacier ice
Note–we DO have internet connection here due to Starlink. If you have any questions or comments, please just email me, and I’ll get back to you.
Onward!
by Ryan Markiewicz | Dec 20, 2024 | Berlin's Wall
The first couple of days onboard has us navigating Drake’s Passage, the way to Antarctica.
I think it’s about 500 miles, and since it is the place where the Pacific Ocean runs into the Atlantic Ocean around Cape Horn (the southern tip of the Americas), it can be rough sailing.
We have about 30-mile-per-hour winds and 10-foot waves, so it’s a little rough, but the Seabourne Venture is a sturdy icebreaker, so while we are rolling a bit, I’ve seen a lot worse. This is doable.
Now, Yuriy made the point last night, “Why would you leave the lovely warmth of Florida to go down to freezing cold Antarctica?” and my half-facetious response is, “Because I’m a dumbass.” And there is certainly SOME truth to that.
But, as William Shatner, our host, (Captain Kirk from the original Star Trek) said at his welcoming talk–because humans have always been “curious” creatures. That even from the days we first stood up, we have wandered and traveled, looking for “What else is out there?”
I’ll take that as the better (at least more romantic) answer.
Onward!
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